Michael A Edwards
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| Richard Mille |
Richard Mille is not a watchmaker.
At least he’s not in the conventional sense of a guy seated over a
long white table, wearing a monocle and piecing together intricate, tiny gears
and movements.
The man who controversially outfitted double-Olympic silver
medallist Yohan Blake with a custom timepiece estimated between US$400-500K has
certainly worked in horology (watchmaking). He spent his formative years at the
House of Maboussin, an entity more known for its high-end jewellery, but which
also puts out watches.
But Mille, who launched his first device under his own name, the
RM 001, in 2000, is foremost an artist and a manager, a fairly rare combination
in today’s business world, and that combo has propelled him to the top ranks of
horology over the last decade or so. Yohan joins a select but growing roster of
high-profile Mille ambassadors that include fellow sportsmen Rafael Nadal and
golf prodigy Bubba Watson, as well as
hip-hop producer-star Pharell.
Mille moves in these circles easily, if somewhat shadowily. Apart
from fine dining and the occasional movie (he claims not to watch television)
Mille’s passions are airplanes and fast cars, fitting since timing is such an
essential element of high-performance motoring. Of the latter, he owns five,
including a vintage Porsche 917 that took part in the famed Le Mans 24Hour race
in 1973. He is well-read, well-travelled, a highly cultured man who channels
his varied interests into his watch creations and uses his skills and contacts
in promoting that business better than many of his contemporaries.
But almost any purveyor of goods, luxury or otherwise can line up
a celebrity or two to shill their product. That in itself doesn’t justify a
six-figure price tag for something which essentially sits on your wrist and,
complications aside, performs one primary function.
So, what is it about Mille and his creations that can command
those stratospheric amounts?
Exclusivity
The RM001 was presented to the public at the watchmaking mecca of
Basel and was followed by more than fifteen further developed new models within
a span of only six years. None of those models have exceeded 35 units. Several,
like Blake’s and Nadals’ are one-of-a kind prototypes that are then used to
push demand for reproductions and other models. The fewer the pieces, the
higher the price – generally.
Specialty
materials
Richard Mille timepieces
have been created through the application of new materials, methods and
concepts in watchmaking the majority of which have never been used before.
“Our concept,” Mille said in a previous interview “was based on
three pillars: the best of the technique and innovation; an important artistic
and architectural dimension, a watch easy to use, robust; and at last the best
of the watch culture, each piece being polished and finished by hand.”
In particular, Mille pioneered the extensive use of ceramics and
titanium. As any car enthusiast knows, ceramics (or carbon fibres) are lighter
but stronger than steel or aluminium. The difficulty however, lies in
manipulating them, especially titanium, which is one of the least malleable and
most unforgiving materials known.
The
Swiss cachet
Though Led and other digital watches threatened to wipe out
conventional Swiss watchmaking in the late 1970s, the watchmakers survived and
over the last decade, the “Swiss Made” tag has retrieved much of its cachet,
even if some of the old individual watch houses have been conglomerated (Swatch
Group, Richemont, etc). The lure of “haute horlogerie” appears to be stronger
than ever, and as an independent, Mille can pretty much exploit that cachet as
he sees fit.
High-performance
timepieces, made without compromise for global high-performers. That’s the
Mille philosophy and that, whatever the IOC rules, is the world in which Yohan
Blake now finds himself. It should be an exciting journey for both ambassador
and brand. As the man himself summarized, “The
success of my brand is due to the fact that I can pass on my passion to my
client, and my clients can say that they won’t change this watch for
another, although they have plenty others in their safe. It means that they
know my watches are truly genuine, and that there is no lie in the technical
data.”
The Watch List – 6 models in the
stratosphere.
If you
think a half-million dollar watch is crazy, how about a million? Or
three-quarter million? The following is but a sampler of the super high-end of
watchmaking.
Hublot Big Bang Black Caviar – He
may be a legend, but Hublot ambassador Usain bolt may have to do more to be
allowed to wear this all-ceramic curiosity, one of the first timepieces to
feature this material exclusively. Limited to a reported 7 units, the suggested
price is a cool one million
GruebelForsey – This watchmaking duo are known for making
devices of high technical capacity and extreme complication, which results in
extremely high prices. Their latest flagship model “retails” for over
US$750,000
Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic
Wish – From another famed jewellery house that also produces high-end
watches, this model, like all their pieces, blends high art and
super-technique. The face depicts a scene from early 20th Century
Paris with the Eiffel Tower and other famed landmarks in evidence. The line
ranges from US$500,000 to over US$700,000
HD3 Vulcania Black Pearl –
Another joint effort, this time between three well-known (in watch circles
anyway) independents – Jorg Hysek, Fabrice Gonet and Valerie Ursenbacher, the
Black Pearl, an extension of an earlier (Jules Verne-themed) model features a
pirate motif. Limited to 11 units, this will set you back anywhere from
US$450,000 .
Jean Dunand Shabaka- Said to be modelled partly on the burial
chamber of the Egyptian pharaoh after whom its named, the Shabaka utilizes
rolling barrels for the day, date and month. Costs around half a million.
Ironically, Jean Dunand contracts much of its movement design to….
Christophe Claret – one
of a select group of watchmaking “overachievers” who put out pieces for other
brands as well as under their own names. His new Blackjack piece, which
actually allows the wearer to play the famous casino game, is actually the
“bargain” of the bunch, priced at a mere US$225,000
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